Friday, February 18, 2011

Amanzi

Here in rural SA, water can be a bit of a...pain in the butt. Typically, I have a tap in the front yard which is about a 50 foot walk, where I fetch my water from each day. But, more often than not, some authority who is unbeknownst to me , turns off the water for extended periods of time. In my village, we are going on 3 weeks without water. I've talked to some volunteers who have gone 3 months. There are a few responses to this issue--one is to buy a huge water reserve tank called a JOJO. These guys are great and can often hold us over until the water is arbitrarily turned on again. Though tend to be very expensive, so many people don't have them. Another response is what you see here in these pictures. A large truck with massive amounts of water will drive through the village once every couple of weeks, pours water into whatever available buckets you might have, and then peaces out. Today we spent about an hour filling our buckets, and carting them back into the house. Each bucket weighs a ton, and as I'm whining and complaining, Gogo just plops it onto her head and powers into the house. So much to learn.

Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Traditional Ceremonies


This past weekend I attended a traditional ceremony for one of the girls in my girls club-the star pupil really. In Ndebele culture, there is a process and ceremony to become a man or women. For the men, about every 3 or 4 years a group of boys will go up and live in the mountains for two months. When they come down, there is a huge ceremony/party and they are officially men. The process is very secretive, despite my constant nagging and indirect questioning, I can't get anyone to actually tell me what happens up there--besides that they kill snakes and sleep on the ground. But the girl-to-woman ceremony happens much more frequently. Typically a girl or her family can choose when they want her to "do her culture", and she spends two months living inside the house, wearing only a blanket around her waist, cooking and cleaning. She isn't allowed to talk to anybody of the opposite sex, and nobody outside of her family. I actually went to visit a family once, unaware that the girl was "doing her culture", and was kind of offended at the fact that she wouldn't respond to my questions or even greet me, until somebody finally noted to me that she wasn't allowed to. After she finishes the two months of good womanly training, her family will host a big party as well, kind of like a debutante ball. 'The girl and all family members shave their heads to honor the debutante and signify growing up and moving forward. People bring presents (you've never seen true functional presents until you've lived in SA...people give money, food, beds, blankets, pots and pans...just what every 16 year old dreams for). Other girls who have either done their or are about to do their culture will come and assist in the ceremony, dressing up in traditional outfits and performing dances (that are, in my opinion, extremellllly boring). People eat, cheer, congratulate the family, and peace out. My host family dressed me up in one of the traditional outfits like the girls above (don't worry, I was wearing a shirt), and I was so surprised at how heavy they are. I mean, I couldn't even walk and was constantly complaining about how the heave beaded blocks were digging into my feet. So it is quite impressive that these girls can wear them for hours at a time, and even dance in them. Maybe that's why the dances are so lame, because they can barely move ;) In the old days, the young girls (virgins) would wear these outfits exposing their chests so that the Chief/King could see the goods and choose who he wanted to be his next wife. In my area anyway, the outfit is more symbolic and the Chief no longer has those powers. I'm not sure if in the more traditional areas, like Zululand, this still occurs.
I have mixed feelings about these cultural practices...girls often have to miss at least a month of school in order to fulfill the 2 month period, and the process of solely cooking and cleaning unclothed for two months seems extremely disempowering. Gogos will spend long days beading and sewing to make these expensive outfits. However it appears to be more of a symbol now than hard held belief, and most girls get to choose if they even want to participate. And maybe I will never understand, because I'm not Ndebele. The only justification I can seem to get from anyone is, "I can't explain it, it's culture". And that's gotta be good enough.

Monday, February 14, 2011

Random Pictures

Me teaching HIV/Aids education in the primary school




















The girls club


















New yoga mats!

Valentines Day

Happy Valentines Day to all of my loved ones! I celebrate love and friendship today, and the fact that YOU are a significant part of my life. I am so thankful for all of the joy and laughter and love that we have shared over the years.

I spent the last weekend in the city running errands and visiting friends. When I arrived at the backpacker, I found roses and chocolate waiting for me from my boyfriend. Such a special and intercontinental-y impressive Valentines treat. Awwwww :)
Sent via my BlackBerry from Vodacom - let your email find you!

Longtom Marathon and the KLM Foundation

The KLM foundation is a wonderful organization that was started by two South Africa PCVs several years ago. Through donations, the foundation is able to send on full scholarship at least 2 intelligent, motivated, and deserving students to an excellent high school each year. As you may have heard me attest to, schools in our areas tend to offer a very poor education, with lackluster teaching (if the teachers even show up), subpar materials (most are without libraries, computer labs, or exercise facilities), and a lot of corporal punishment. Many students drop out before they even finish high school, and there is little effort to combat or react to this. In my region, less than 1% of students who pass and finish high school go on to attend college. This fundraiser grants the opportunity for students who have demonstrated a strong desire to learn and achieve higher levels of education, to attend an excellent private school that promises to give them the education and opportunities that they deserve. At the end of March I will be running a half-marathon and through doing so will raise money to support the educational goals of these two students. If you are interested in learning more, please visit http://www.klm-foundation.org/. If you choose to donate, please write my name in the slot that says, “If you are supporting a Longtom Marathon runner, write their name here”.

The marathon takes place in Eastern Mpumalanga province, an absolutely gorgeous area close to Kruger Park. It is the first marathon that I am attempting, and am realllllly hoping that the temperatures subside, because they are currently impeding my will to train. Thank you so much for your support!

World Aids Day Pictures


Students from the primary school did a drumline performance and march around the village to notify people of the event and spark interest. It was awesome!









Above, we are using a Candlelight ceremony to celebrate people who are free from HIV, to support people living with HIV, and to remember those who have died from HIV/Aids related diseases.



To the left, we passed out AIDS ribbons and condoms to everyone who attended.

2011

Sanibonani my friends!

I know what you’re thinking, and by writing today I can prove to you that yes, I am in fact alive, I am back (and still) in South Africa, and I do still have access to a computer and internet! I am sooooo sorry for the three month hiatus; I’m fully aware that my blog posts are most likely the highlight of your week and the food for your hungry souls, so I promise to begin fulfilling you once again. My new years resolution (I realize it is mid February, but it’s never to late to start) is to blog more, and instead of long boring updates about what I’m doing and not doing, I pledge to give you a better insight to daily life in South Africa, as a PCV, and village goings-on. But since it has been so long it appears that you will have to sit through another boring one yet again before we can get to the good stuff.

So to start, a quick recap of December-Present:

The World Aids Day event went incredibly. After weeks of planning, meetings, begging for donations, and organizing speakers/performers, we were able to pull off an event that was well attended and went more smoothly than I could have hoped or imagined. We only started 1.5 hours late, everybody who was supposed to speak and perform showed up and did wonderfully, and we even had an impromptu Waka Waka (the Shakira World Cup theme song) dance party, followed by a serious question and answer session. People in the village are very reluctant to talk about HIV in any form, so I was really surprised and delighted to see people opening up and asking questions in front of their peers. We had speakers from the local municipality, nurses, youth, and even people living with HIV giving education talks, motivational speeches, and just talking about their thoughts and experiences. The Department of Health sent a cohort of nurses along with their mobile clinic so that we could do HIV testing on site. My only discontentment with the event was that we didn’t see a huge number of people get tested, but I hope and believe that with each successive HIV testing campaign people will become more comfortable and we will be able to reach more and more villagers. It was a great note to leave on and was so fortunate to have the help and support of community members, home based care staff, and other counterparts (I’ll admit it, I wasn’t fully convinced that they were going to pull through). Though people here know who I am and what I’m doing, I felt like this was my first real and tangible accomplishment to show to my community, and that they have understood and taken me more seriously ever since.


After a final few weeks of insufferable heat, I packed up and had the incredible opportunity to go home to America for Christmas. I can’t describe how amazing it was so be home with family and friends after almost a year away; it was a trip filled with love and joy and laughter (I know I sound like a sappy greeting card but that’s just how it is). We celebrated our first Christmas in Texas, and I ate and drank my way through the next two weeks. Honestly, I think I was averaging about 7 meals a day. Had to get my fill of Mexican food for the next year! I spent a lot of quality time exploring Texas, learning the two-step, and cheering TCU to victory at the Rosebowl with my family, long walks on the beach with my boyfriend (swoon), catching up over happy hours with friends (I even had a surprise visit from friends living in San Francisco and New York!!!), taking long hot showers and wasting water (I feel no shame seeing as I think my carbon footprint from the past year was most likely below zero), and if I write any more I may have to get back on a plane to go home, so I’ll stop myself. But I feel very blessed to have such an incredible support system and came back to SA feeling very refreshed and ready to take on my final year.
Speaking of final year, I’m amazed at how fast the time has gone! Though this was most likely the fastest year of my life, I also think back to where I was at this time last year and I can’t believe how much has happened in this year. I’m confident in my belief that the hardest part is over, and I’m pretty darn proud of myself and other PCVs for being able to make it this far. None of it was easy, and I am able to walk away from the first year satisfied with how much I have learned, grown personally, and at least the small impact I hope I have been able to make in my community.

It was a hard transition back but after a week or so of moping and finishing off the remaining bags of skittles that I lugged back here with me, I got my feet back on the ground and things, though slow, are going well. Our gogo group is thriving with just under 30 members. We spend about 2 hours twice a month doing a support group of sorts: exercises, health education talks, and discussion. The discussion sector has been slow to come (a result of the aforementioned unwillingness to talk about private matters in a public setting), but I think as time goes on we will see a breakthrough. For now we are able to offer a short break in a long and difficult day for the women who most definitely run every facet of the village. Upon starting the group, I thought the reluctance would be more in the participation of exercise, not discussion. But they are LOVING the exercise, and we even worked ourselves up to a 3 minute jog last week (imagine 30 majorly overweight 60+ women running around the village, it was fabulous). We are starting the beadwork next week, an attempt at an income generating project in which we purchase the beads for them to make jewelery, AIDS ribbons, etc., and then we sell their products. They will receive half of the sale price and we will keep the other half to keep purchasing more beads, to create more products. Sustainability for the win! I have written and am waiting for response about a grant that I wrote to take my girls club, along with the girls club of a fellow PCV, away for a week-long girls empowerment camp that focuses on health and exercise, the environment, and HIV/Aids. Our hope is to hold the camp over the June/July holidays. And exciting news on the library front, we were lucky enough to receive large donations of books from multiple organizations this month, and will begin preparations on the tedious process of building the facility, and organizing, labelling, and recording all information about the books. At least it will keep me busy!

Looking forward, I’m excited about a half-marathon that I will be running in March, another brief training with all of my other PCV friends to commemorate our official one year of service, Easter, and a permagarden workshop that I will attend with a counterpart from my organization, with the idea of spreading the knowledge and practice through to my organization and others in the community.

Salani Kahle (stay well), and much love.